Wednesday, April 29, 2015

What Really Happens in Bali (Indonesia)

As I flew out of Papua New Guinea, it struck me that the days of lazy beach traveling were ending and some serious touristing was once again about  to begin.  We were headed to Indonesia, and I wanted to soak up all the “assaulting” smells, tastes, and sounds.  Indonesia was of special interest to me, because I have a personal history there, well technically a familial history.  My parents and oldest brother moved there in 1975, and my second oldest brother was born there.  Well, actually I think he was born in Singapore, and moved there right after birth.  I’m really not sure about the details, I think my father was a secret spy ;)  The initial flight was from Port Moresby to Brisbane, Australia, where I literally had to sprint with my bags to make the next flight to Denpasar, Indonesia.  Denpasar lies on the notorious island of Bali, which, I believe for Americans eludes to a land of quiet paradise, with beaches and fruity drinks, but for Australian teenagers rouses the memory or anticipation of “schoolies” (aka Spring Break) bathed in questionable alcohol (vs. pure ethanol), illegal drugs, prostitution, and the occasional hospital encounter.  There is actually a TV show in Australia called “What Really Happens in Bali” which, unlike our MTV Spring Break (I don’t even know if they still air that) is a full season of Aussies escaping to the island of Bali and ransacking the place.  Needless to say I was excited and anxious to arrive.  Through research, we discovered that the epicenter of debauchery is in an area called Kuta, so we strategically booked a hostel in an area not far, right on the beach, and better known for surfing than swindling, called Sanur.  We arrived in Bali, waited around for our bags and customs and found the most reputable taxi company.  The taxi driver drove to our hostel, The Big Pineapple in Sanur, in about 15 minutes.  One of Jared’s old friends from the Marine Corp was actually meeting us in Bali and would spend the month in Indonesia.  Déjà vu?  Not Clint, a new friend named Bernard.  He was staying at the same hostel, and was supposed to have arrived before us, but because it was pretty late (and we assumed he was pretty jetlagged), he wasn’t around when we arrived.  The hostel looked pretty cool: a pool, an entertainment area, and an open kitchen with an attached open-aired lounge/eating area.  There were some people hanging out around the table, so I had a chat with them for a bit before crashing after the long day’s travel. 
The next morning, I woke up pretty early from the time difference and noticed some of the early-bird surfers making their way out, board in tow.  Bernard was among some of the first up, due to his jetlag, so we were all able to head out before most people were awake and walk around.  We stopped to grab breakfast at a local spot, which we deduced would be good because it was already pretty popular with locals; no idea what the name was, as there was no sign.  It was basically ordered buffet style, so I stood and looked at all the options, not knowing what pretty much 95% of the options actually were.  Animal?  Mineral?  Vegetable?  After a while, a woman approached and I “body-languaged” that I wanted to order; she grabbed a small whicker plate-bowl (not a flat plate, but not really the shape of a bowl either.  Is there a category for that?) with a paper liner and spooned a big heap of white rice onto the bowl and then waited for me to point at what I wanted.  She did know a few words, like meat or vegetable, and I was able to decipher which meat by either clucking, mooing, or lifting my nose and oinking…no I’m not kidding.  When she served up my portions, she only put a few mouthfuls onto the plate-bowl, and when I looked around, I noticed everyone else had a variety of foods and flavors on theirs, so I picked about four options and paid the whopping ~$2 for my full plate.  This ordered buffet style meal with several different types of food piled on top of rice, is what we later discovered is called Nasi Campur, and is a staple meal in all of Indonesia.  After breakfast, we walked back to the hostel.  Jared was still having ear trouble from Papua New Guinea, and wanted me to go with him to get checked out and see if he needed any more medications.  He rented a moped, and the two of us headed out to a hospital clinic on which we had gotten good references.  I waited around in the lobby area, while he got checked out.  Diagnosis: you don’t seem to have an ear infection.  Summary: no s#*( Sherlcok, he’s had a full round of antibiotics.  Anyway, point was he was fine.  We made our way back to the hostel, and met up with Bernard to head to THE BEACH!!  It was about a 7 minute walk from our place, down the main road, to the beach.  Once we hit the sand…we were a bit disappointed.  We were kind of hoping for those beaches they show in the commercials and movies.  It was not that; lots of people, no actual open space to lay a towel down on the sand, but all lounge chairs, which was fine, because the sand was kind of crummy and dirty.  Normally, we would never purchase a lounge chair, but these were about 50 cents, so we splurged.  A woman came over and we each ordered a local beer, Bintang.  We did get into the water a couple times, mostly to pee after a few beers, but the water was littered with garbage.  What part of Bali was everyone else going to?  How was this spot popular as a nice quiet beach with good surfing?  Oh yea, that was the other thing, there was no place we could see to surf, zero waves.  We later found out, that at the particular time of year when we visited (January) trash flowed over from the island of Java and littered the beaches of Bali.  We also found out that surfers actually had to drive (most on a moped with an attached board rack along the side) to some other location to go surfing.  Clearly, Tripadvisor or Lonely Planet, or whatever Jared had used to get information on Bali, had misguided him.  Anyway, I still enjoyed being in the sun and sipping a few beers.  When we got hungry, we ordered food from the same woman who brought us beers.  We had no idea exactly what we were ordered, but there were pictures to guide, so we decided on nasi goring and mee (or mie) goreng, which ended up translating to fried rice (nasi) and noodles (mee), but like the best fried rice/noodles ever!  After lunch, we walked back to the hostel, along the way being very tempted to get an hour long massage for $5!!!  BAH!  I opted out in the end, vowing I would return later.  Back at the hostel, I hung out in the pool with some of the other people, exchanging information and stories about the area.  Everyone had been to Kuta Bali (the crazy tourist area) at least once, and every single one of them had lost something or had something robbed.  But we did hear ridiculous stories, urban legends they seemed, about bars where you order one shot and receive three, or clubs where you can drink for free from 9pm to 11pm.  This place can’t be for real, right?  We decided that we would take a gamble on the night life and be drunk teenagers for a night…if we could handle it.  After a lot of lounging and chatting, we made our way out to dinner at the same place as breakfast.  The great thing about nasi (rice) campur is that you can pretty much have a different meal every time.  There were tons of different sautéed vegetables, beef, eggs, chicken, and so many things I couldn’t place or had never seen, such as tempe, which is like tofu, in that it is made from soy, but tastes nothing like it and has a completely different texture.  The soy beans are actually whole or sliced up, so it very solid and crunchy.  Anyway, I knew about half of the things I ordered, but all of it was good.  As the sun went down, I went back to the hostel to get ready for the night.  Chatting with a few people, I learned that everyone was actually going to a bar down close by, and invited us to join.  Since we had another night, we decided to be social and hang out with everyone instead of going out on our own.  We hopped in a for short cab ride to a bar called Casablanca.  Splitting things like that can be so difficult, because not everyone has small change.  As we each handed the cab driver different random amounts of money, I gave him a larger bill in order to take care of the whole thing and get everyone else’s small change.  Unfortunately, in the commotion, the cabbie received all of the money and sped off.  The two boys were pissed, swearing and stamping.  I tried to convince them I wasn’t upset and to move one, but they were such party poopers for such a long time in the bar!  What a drag.  Finally, I just decided to drink large quantities by myself and join in with the other people.  As the night went on, they loosened up a bit and Bernard even got out on the dance floor!  We danced till…well not really that late, we were pretty jetlagged, but it was still super fun, and we ended the night on a good note.
The next day, we woke up and again headed off to the beach.  Again, there was a lot of trash and we decided to make that our last day in Sanur.  We had a really good lunch again of nasi goreng and mee goreng, and a few (more) beers while lounging, and popped into the water occasionally to cool off (and pee).  After the beach, we walked around the main road a bit, which was pretty much chocker-block full of tourist shops to buy clothes.  Slowly, I made my way back to the hostel, popping into shops occasionally.  Back at the hostel, we again hung out with some people in the pool, chatting with other hostelers.  That night was going to be our big Kuta Bali night.  We showered and got ready and started pregaming at the common table with some of the other travelers.  Everyone again traded stories about going to Kuta and how they had a great time but were filled with shame and regret that next day.  I put a few dollars in my bra, and left everything else at the hostel.  We did pick up one traveler Ed, who was really nice and from the UK.  He hadn’t been to Kuta yet either and when he heard free drinks from 9pm until 11pm, he threw caution to the wind with us. We hopped in a cab, argued over the fare, until he finally agreed to our price.  I think the guys all had just started letting me handle haggling, because I will not budge.  I actually opened the car door to get out (while he was driving [really slowly]), because he kept trying to jack up the price.  Anyway, off we went to Kuta.  I think we were all a bit nervous about driving into some Las-Vegas-in-anarchy sort of place, but as we neared and saw more and more tourists and English restaurants, we realized it was nothing as crazy as we had imagined.  We got out of the cab and walked to the club, where I was sure there was going to be some sort of cover or restriction on the 9pm to 11pm thing…which there did not appear to be!  We received wrist bands, and entered the huge entry hall.  Inside there were several levels, and rooms, live dancers, live dj’s, R&B room, Rap room, Top 40 etc.  We walked I think five floors up to where the all-you-can-drink room was, and still assuming some sort of catch, immediately made our way to the bar.  Within a few minutes, we each had some sort of fruity cocktail in our hands.  The rest of the night was full of unlimited free drinks (there was no catch), dancing, and TONS of Indonesian teenage boys!  Pretty much all of us had a great time, until someone wasn’t able to handle his alcohol…I won’t get into details, but his name rhymes with…Lared haha.  The night in Kuta ended with Bernard and Ed stuffing their faces with noodles, while Jared smashed up tables, and I danced by myself at an open bar across the street, stealing puffs of hookah off of random people.  When we got back to the hostel, the rest of us enjoyed a bit of time hanging out with other people until the wee hours of the morning, I think Bernard stayed up till like 4:30am.  Overall a successful evening, with absolutely nothing stolen!
The next morning, I was the first up and SHOCKINGLY did not feel all that bad.  The boys all woke a bit later, some more embarrassed over their behavior than others.  That day, we were heading to Ubud, so we packed up all of our things, and we able to relax for a few hours before our ride came to pick us up.  When the ride came, we said our goodbyes to everyone, most of whom were heading to Ubud as well within the next day or two, and set out for our next location.

No comments:

Post a Comment